Mohave Desert, Temple Bar, AZ In the middle of the Mojave's nothingness, this town huddles between the mountains and scrub brush, separated from the road by an unending stretch of barbed wire. Despite the whiteness of the trailers that cluster around each other, they seem to almost blend in with the landscape. We can only imagine the poverty these people must experience. We've seen their signs on the side of the road, practically begging us to stop for gifts and "free cacti", but we've left the lights of Vegas behind, and the hills block our cell phone reception: we're in the true no man's land. Even though we know that towns like Temple Bar are the reason for this trip, that they're the difference we've hoped to experience, we're actually afraid to get off the road and enter the town. To do so would be to be marked as outsiders, and it's our nature to shy from situations where we don't fit. There's something to be said for the tourist's gaze: safe, comfortable, easy.